Bobbing along in the sea with a local fisherman from Pylos as the sun was setting, the uninhabited island of Sphakteria stood defiant before us.

It was here in 425BC that 292 Spartan soldiers surrendered to the Athenians having been isolated on the island since defeat at the Battle of Pylos. This was a great coup for Athens and a shield has been found in the Athenian agora that belonged to one of these Spartans, displayed in the most public area of the city, perhaps dedicated to a nearby sanctuary in thanks. Stories of Leonidas and his 300 fighting bitterly to the death against Xerxes in the Persian Wars have created a legend of Spartan warriors who would never surrender…the reality of war was much different. It’s easy enough for us all to surrender ourselves to the beauty of Greece though. \*\datas